MOV'IT high peformance brakes kits
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MOV' IT offers front and rear brakes for most AUDI model. Please check the application list.

TÜV is available for most AUDI cars in Germany, Austria, Switzerland.

RS 246 Meeting at HOCKENHEIM 2003 many of them visited MOV' IT before - a half hour trip from the HOCKENHEIM race track - to get the right brakes for the event. Saturday they had two sessions of 20 minutes , the fast cars had MOV' IT brakes - and the fastest had MOV' IT brakes front and rear - . as the picture shows, there is NO wear to be seen after the two sessions - they look like new.

all stock brakes were glowing

MOV'IT BRAKES FOR AUDI  - TÜV certified in Germany, Austria, Switzerland.

AUDI S8 disigned and modified by PAROTECH / France

Vorsprung Durch Technich

Audi engineers are not shy about pushing the technical envelope. When it came time to develop the brake system for the advanced V8 Quattro in 1986, the requirements included minimum stopping distances of a vehicle of 4000+ pounds doing 150 MPH on the local Autobahns, and the use of 15" Wheels. Quite a tall order. So a design that rotated the brake disc surface area to the inside of the rotor, provided lots of surface cooling area, and utilized a huge single floating piston caliper, was created for this car. It was unveiled to the public at the Frankfurt IAA Salon in 1987 in the Audi V8 Quattro. Quite a revolution in design for the car as well as the brakes. This same system was also used in the new for 1989-200 Quattro 20V (in Europe). For the North American market, it was fitted to the 1989-1991 V8s, and 1991 200 TQ 20V Sedans and Avants. As with all new brakethrus (puns intended), unforeseen difficulties with the manufacture of the rotor caused numerous problems with rotor warpage under heavy repeated braking. This in turn caused many consumer complaints in the USA about steering wheel shake. The moniker, UFO Brake system as it would become known as, was due to the peculiar appearance of the Rotor assembly. The customer complaints reached quite a crescendo in 1991, and Audi started a voluntary recall campaign to replace the entire front end suspension components and brakes with their conventional system, using a two piston Girling G60 floating caliper, and a normal looking vented rotor of 276-288MM Diam. Forward to 1992, the V8 came fitted from the factory for North America with this set up, as well as the new S4 (C4-S4). In Europe however, the UFO system continued to be used, as it really was a superior brake system, and Audi eventually improved the quality of the unusual rotors. The real drawback was the replacement cost of the Rotors. For a long while, it was really expensive. Eventually, Audi developed a 4 pad 2 Pot system with a Caliper by Lucas, and it was fitted to Euro S6 V8s (C4-S6 4.2). This same system is now on the new A6 2.7T and 4.2 (C5), S8 (D2), 1999 up S4 (B5). 20V owners.I purchased my 1991 200 TQ 20V Avant in 1997 with 39K miles on the clock. It had already had the UFO rotors replaced under warranty, but it had not had been updated to the new G60 based brakes. The recall campaign was over, so I decided that when the rotors were toast, I would consider a conventional conversion. Over the next 80K miles, I did come to appreciate the brilliant design of the UFO system, with great pedal feel, decent stopping distances, and long life pads (About 40K each front set). I was however, a little afraid to risk warping them with any aggressive track or mountain driving.

It seems that when you have a car with great brakes, you become as addicted to them as you would a car with massive power. In 1998, I upgraded the G60 based brakes on my 1994 S4 to the Mov'it Big Reds Porsche 993 Twin Turbo Brake Kit (http://www.movit.de). See the Fall 1998 quattro club quarterly issue for my story of this conversion.I got spoiled. Unlimited stopping power. Repeated hard braking, time after time, with no fade, no warped rotors, and very short stopping distances. Let alone such a positive change in pedal feel. Spoiled.
Well, the Avant hit 120K miles last month. The Dunlop D60A2s had lasted 70K Miles (what a great inexpensive tire!) with tread to spare, the rotors were approaching minimum thickness, and the front pads needed replacing. Sounded like a perfect time for a tire/wheel/brake upgrade. The hardest part was prying this car out of my daughter Quianas hands so I could work on it. She is in love with this vehicle. I am told stories by her of blowing off BMW 3ers, Z3s, Mustangs, Miatas, and Hondas with sewer pipe exhausts, etc. I decided to upgrade to a 16" wheel, as we press this car into all kinds of service in our family business. From hauling dogs and beach gear, to 4-12 speaker cabs, drum kits, and racks full of audio equipment, it will do it all. Fitting 17" tires would have meant too small of a sidewall cross-section affecting ride comfort, and ease of rim damage on poorly maintained roads. For 1991 and the 20V Motor, fender flares were fitted by Audi on my 200. This allowed me a maximum wheel width 7.5, and a 225mm width tread (more limited by the rear wheel well)

In 1999, Guido Frensemeyer, of Mov'it in Germany told me that he had developed a kit for replacement of the UFO system without having to change the struts, and using the 993 Twin Turbo 4 piston front calipers and 330mm vented and cast hole rotors. Yes! Please! I told him. Eventually, a nice package from UPS arrived. Of the many things I love about the Mov'it kit, is the superb engineering and manufacture of the custom rotor hats and brackets. Included also are stainless brake lines for the front and rear, pad wear sensors with the proper electrical fittings, new hardware, pads etc. I had to add Locktite, and my labor.

If you have ever changed out a Caliper, consider yourself a decent shade tree mechanic, or you are a skilled master tech, it is an easy job to do. No special tools are required except a great flare nut wrench for the brake lines! Here are the steps;

1. Soak the Brake Line fitting on the wheel well with Liquid Wrench and some penetrating oil. You may need to do this overnight on corroded fittings. I cannot over emphasize this step. Remove the rubber brake line by using a 11mm flare nut wrench, and be carefull turning the nut. If it will not budge, try heating it up, soaking some more, etc.

2. Remove the old Rotor and Caliper. This requires all Caliper mounting hardware to the Strut (3 big bolts), brake line, pad wear sensor, and the little screw on the rotor hub.
You must plug up the brake line to prevent fluid from dripping all over you and the driveway.

3. Cut off the top caliper mounting hole tab located on the strut. You will need the bottom two holes for mounting the new caliper bracket. I used a Sawzall with a Carbide metal cutting blade. See the pictures.

4. Mount the new rotor/hat on the hub. Use at least 4 wheel bolts to hold it on.

5. Mount the new Bracket. You will need to actually do a dry run of the bracket with the caliper together to see that the caliper is centered over the rotor. Mov'it kit includes some shim washers to adjust the bracket position. When you know what shims if any are required, mount the bracket with Locktite applied to the threads of the mounting screws.
Torque the Bolts to Audi Caliper mounting specs.

6. Mount the Caliper to the bracket with or without the pads already installed. Use Locktite as well. Check the pads to make sure they are centered in place.

7. Install the pad wear sensors and plug them in.

8. Install the new stainless brake lines.

9. Remove the rear rubber brake lines and install the new stainless lines supplied with the kit.

10. Pressure bleed the system. This is very important as vacumn bleeders do not work well with the ABS pump. Start by removing the old brake fluid in the master cylinder resorvoir before bleeding. Use a DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid . I use ATE or if it is unavilable, Castrol, or Mercedes Benz DOT 4+ will due fine. The huge caliper has lots of pockets to trap air, so you need to flush the entire system of the old fluid, and make sure that there are no more air bubbles in the bled fluid.

11. I also took this opportunity to change the rear brake rotors and pads.
It was now time to search for a 16" wheel that would fit my beautiful big brakes.

We are blessed to have several great wheel companies in So. Cal. Ronal (http://www.ronalusa.com), TSW (http://www.tswnet.com), and AMS selling Abt Wheels. I contacted all of them, they happily invited me to come down to Dry Fit the rotors and calipers, and see which 16" wheels would accept the brakes. Ronal had several styles that would work, and so did TSW. Abt required a 17" size.

I had been eyeing the TSW Imolas as well as the TSW Revo R wheels for quite some time. After consultation with the President of TSW, Dennis Cohen, I decided on the 16x7 ET 35mm Revo Rs. Although the Ronal wheels were superbly made, and looked good, it was a matter of style and subjective taste.
Next was the choice of tire. I have been a Dunlop fan for years, After having a fleet of cars wearing Dunlop rubber, from D40M2s on my son's Alfa Milano, D60A2s on our Peugeot and our 200 TQA, D8000s on my 1994 S4 and my son's 1993 S4, I decided on D8000s in 225/50/ZR16 size (http://www.dunlop.com).
As I have written before, in my opinion, we are also blessed in Los Angeles with one of the best Tires stores in the world, Western Tire in Burbank. They fitted the Dunlops and balanced them perfectly. They are so careful in their work. The owners of Western Tire will personally torque Alloys on customer cars, just to make sure they are spot on, and no chance of wheel damage from over torqueing.

You will need extra long wheel bolts, 19mm Head size, and 32 mm long. The thickness of the rotor hats is greater than the stock rotor hub.
I drove the car gently to my favorite brake pad bedding ground, Angeles Crest Highway.

After a hundred miles or so, I tested the stopping power. Excellent! It would even get better over the next 1K miles. Pedal feel, travel, and ease of modulation is improved.

They look cool as well. Time for the track! This is a modification I highly recommend to all V8 and 91 200